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    There is no inherent reason for an item of clothing, for example a skirt, to be considered feminine. Roland Barthes, in his book The Diseases of Costume, writes of theatrical dress as a kind of language in which the basic element is the sign (Lurie, 1992, p3). This statement can be expanded to include all elements of dress away from the theatre. If clothing is a sign therefore, it must be given a meaning and this meaning, as with all signs, is constructed. For example, society has identified the skirt as a signifier of femininity, which has been reinforced through repeated exposure (both through the media and on the street) to images of women in skirts and men in trousers. The fact that the gender signification of this garment has altered indicates that fashion, just like gender itself, is a social construction, with fashion items becoming loaded signs. If our appearance is an accumulation of signs then we each reveal something about ourselves through our choice of garments; clothing becomes a reflection of our identity. Whilst fashion does allow women to experiment with their image and different ways of portraying femininity, as something primarily constructed for the male gaze it still confines women to a choice between constructed female identities (Barnard, 1996, p140).

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    Cross dressing has been utilized by performers like comedian Barry Humphries, as a means of making a social statement. Humphries’ famous character Dame Edna Everage has become a popular entertainment figure. Through this character Humphries is able to explore and parody the construction of femininity. Dame Edna is deliberately extreme in her appearance, often wearing large ornate glasses and purple hair (Dame Edna The Official Site). She is an example of exaggerated femininity which borders on the grotesque. She is a loaded signifier, with her purple hair and extremely costume like clothes she is the epitome of gender as construction and denaturalises the idea that there is a natural gendered state. Such parody is not limited to cross dressing however, it can also be revealed through strategically designed garments like the Jean Paul Gaultier corset which Madonna famously wore.

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    High heeled shoes, like the corset, are an example of fashion supporting the female gender identity by constricting and binding women. The narrow toed high heel shoe that has been so popular in recent years, forces the foot and ankle into an unnatural position, as well as restricting the toes. The heel places the foot at an angle, making the legs look longer and more elegant and drawing attention to the ankle (which has long been associated with physical attraction) (Lurie, 1992, p227). This angle also forces the woman to ‘strut’ to some extent in order to walk. The unnatural position inevitably makes standing and walking for any length of time painful as well as making running at any speed an impossibility. Any woman in heels attempting to outrun a man is certain to fail, thus reaffirming mans position of dominance. Yet high heeled shoes are extremely popular and are considered quite stylish, even being worn with jeans (Lurie, 1992, p227). This example in particular highlights femininity as a construction being based on appearance not physical ability. The appearance of a long leg is considered superior to being able to actually utilize it. This unhealthy focus on women’s appearance rather than their physical ability and health has been perpetrated by the fashion industry for decades. One of the dominant messages that fashion conveys is that women should be thin (Macdonald, 1995, p201).

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    A woman wearing men’s clothing does not conform to the feminine ideal and as such is recognisably subverting it. The fact that this subversion is identifiable highlights the gendered nature of the fashion industry and the way in which it supports society’s belief in the feminine being separate from the masculine. If gender identity is learnt, then by choosing our own clothes we reflect how well we have learnt to be masculine or feminine. For cross dressers fashion is a means of either constructing a gendered identity different to the one expected of them or parodying the constructed nature of gender itself.

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    Whilst fashion may try to subvert or construct gender identities, it may simply support social ideals already in place. As Malcom Barnard writes in his book Fashion as Communication, “Signs are only meaningful on the basis of their relations to all other signs” (1996, p156). In this way fashion can only convey a meaning when coupled with other signs (particularly the body itself), and as such cannot construct a gendered identity of its own accord. In order for clothing to be a signifier of a gender identity, that gender identity must already be constructed in order to give fashion its meaning. In which case, fashion is not constructing gender identities; it is reflecting and reinforcing them. Not all fashions have been accepted by society, the most obvious examples being skirts and the colour pink not being acceptable for men (Lurie, 1992, p214). Some designers, like Jennifer Minniti, have attempted to promote skirts and dresses as a male alternative; however such designs have not succeeded in the mainstream (Shreve, 1998). This is likely due to them not conforming to society’s expectations of gender identities. Men in skirts are still considered to be cross dressing, and as such skirts remain signifiers of femininity. Gender identity also comprises more than appearance. Gesture, behaviour and social standing all contribute to a person’s gender identity, and whilst fashion can attempt to draw on or hide these signifiers it cannot do so completely.

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